A while back I bought a $200 52″ HDTV off my local Craigslist for my new place with my roommates. It was a Toshiba 57HDX82 and the only realy problem was that it had this “wavy line” problem as seen below.
At the time of the purchase the problem was not that bad and it was definately still watchable. The basic symptoms were that when you turned the TV on the picture was all jumbled, jittery, shakey, wavy, call it what you will. Then after a few minutes the problem would go away. Well, eventually those “few minutes” turned into 10 then 20 minutes and we came to the point where we really just didn’t turn the TV off and just turned off the sources (XBOX, DVD player, cable, etc) so it wasn’t projecting anything and was just a black screen.
After a lot of research online I found the problem was the hyperboard** and more specifically 10 “capacitors” on the hyperboard that are faulty. According to kcarrigan a specialist on the repair, the problem is that the capcitors on this are of poor quality and generate a lot of heat, which rapidly degenerates them. Naturally the hyperboard in question is no longer produced by Toshiba, and no website or local TV repair shop will be able to get it for you. Now you have three options, all of which will require a solder gun to remove the hyperboard from the main board.
Option 1: kcarrigan (eBay)
As recommended by a reader, ‘bogart’ recommends sending your board to kcarrigan who will repair the part in question for a fraction of the cost of PTS Corp. Essentially they complete the process as explained below, and can even repair some damage done if you tried to do it yourself.
Toshiba MVPU14 HyperBoard Hyper Board- will repair – eBay external link
Option 2: PTS Corp.
Prior to kcarrigan’s arrival on the scene PTS Corp. was the primary choice for beginner and amature solders. Basically they repair electronic parts like curcuit boards for large items (TVs). All you need to know is that you have to package up your hyperboard and send it to…
2000 Liberty Drive
Bloomington, IN 47403
…and include a note with your…
How you’d like to pay (VISA , MasterCard, or COD):
Description of Problem:
The service, not including shipping, was $125 as of Nov. 2007.
Option 3: Self-Repair
Your other option is to try and repair it yourself, I only recommend this to people who are VERY familiar (note emphasis) with soldering circuit boards or know someone they can trust to do it for them. To summarize it, you’ll need to remove the lower back portion of the case, remove the input board, lay the TV on it’s face***, remove the solder from the underside of the hyperboard and unplug the hyperboard from the mainboard. Here’s a step by step guide I wrote a while back on how to do this:
- Remove all the black screws on the back of the TV that are in the cork board.
- Remove the cork board
- Remove the screws that are in the input board amongst the inputs.
- You will notice that it still will not budge, that’s because you still need to remove a nut that is on the cable tv adapter (notice how it is the only one with a nut on it)
- Also don’t forget to remove the screws out of the DVI input.
- The plastic over the input board should be free now, remove it.
- Now you are looking at the input board, CAREFULLY unplug the wires at the top of the board.
- Now you need to pull the entire input board up and out of the big black plug at the bottom. Take note of the 2 clasps locking it in place.
- You should be looking at the Hyperboard now. (in the silver case with vent holes)
- You should also see that it is held down in place by two abs on a big black “bridge”.
- There are a total of 4 screws holding the “bridge” in place, two on either side, remove them
- Now the hyperboard is loose enough to continue onto the next step
- You should notice that the board is strangely still firmly attached to the FRAGILE! main board below it. That’s because it’s soldered to it.
- You now will need to tip the tv forward so it is laying on the screen. I put a bunch of pillows and blankets down.
- Once you have the TV on it’s face you can see the underside is covered by…chicken wire? (i don’t know what else to call it)
- Remove the chicken wire for the upper right section.
- This next step is hard to explain but hopefully you can use your intuition and figure out what i’m saying.
- Look at the base of the hyperboard where it connects to the mainboard. Then follow that to the other side of the main board.
- You should notice that the hyperboard actually extends through the main board and is held in place on the underside of the main board (that you see on the bottom of the tv). And the hyperboard is held on the main board by 4 gobs of solder.
- Use a solder gun and solder wick to remove the solder from the tabs poking through (this will take considerable time depending on how well you can wield a soldering iron)
- After removing the solder you’ll have to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to straighten the tabs so the hyperboard can be pulled out straight straight-out
Now that you have the hyperboard in hand you either send it to PTS Corp. as mentioned above or you can procede to repair it yourself (this is difficult and without soldering skills is not recommended, you’ve been warned). To open the hyperboard you have to remove 2 more gobs of solder that hold the outer metal casing together. After that you need to replace the wonky capacitors shown in the image below.
A couple tips from FixYa:
- One needs to be very careful when removing the old capacitors as the pads are very easy to “rip” off the board making life a lot less happier.
- Best bet is to use good lite solder wick, hemostats, maybe an “exacto knife” and a skinny tipped 25 Watt iron
- Go very slow being extremely careful not to accidently rip up any pads or traces as some are extremely tiny!
Now just reverse the steps, put the hyperboard back in and you should have a fully functional rear-projection Toshiba HDTV!
** the hyperboard is also referred to as hyper-scan module, hyper-module, PD0637, part number 23148024, scan converter, or digital conversion board.
*** ‘bogart’ below has recommended not to lay the unit on it’s face (see comments below)
This problem is not unique to just this model of Toshiba rear-projection TVs. From what I have read it also could apply to the 36HF72, 50H81, 42H81, 57HDX82, 50h12, 57hx81, 50HX1, and many others (if yours is not listed here and this applies to your model please leave a comment and so I can add it).