How To: Fix Toshiba Rear Projection HDTV wavy lines


A while back I bought a $200 52″ HDTV off my local Craigslist for my new place with my roommates. It was a Toshiba 57HDX82 and the only realy problem was that it had this “wavy line” problem as seen below.

TV on the left is what the problem looks like full screen. The TV on the right is what it looks like with Picture-In-Picture enabled to show the contrast

TV on the left is what the problem looks like full screen. The TV on the right is what it looks like with Picture-In-Picture enabled to show the contrast

At the time of the purchase the problem was not that bad and it was definately still watchable. The basic symptoms were that when you turned the TV on the picture was all jumbled, jittery, shakey, wavy, call it what you will. Then after a few minutes the problem would go away. Well, eventually those “few minutes” turned into 10 then 20 minutes and we came to the point where we really just didn’t turn the TV off and just turned off the sources (XBOX, DVD player, cable, etc) so it wasn’t projecting anything and was just a black screen.

The Repair

After a lot of research online I found the problem was the hyperboard** and more specifically 10 “capacitors” on the hyperboard that are faulty. According to kcarrigan a specialist on the repair, the problem is that the capcitors on this are of poor quality and generate a lot of heat, which rapidly degenerates them. Naturally the hyperboard in question is no longer produced by Toshiba, and no website or local TV repair shop will be able to get it for you. Now you have three options, all of which will require a solder gun to remove the hyperboard from the main board.

Option 1: kcarrigan (eBay)

As recommended by a reader, ‘bogart’ recommends sending your board to kcarrigan who will repair the part in question for a fraction of the cost of PTS Corp. Essentially they complete the process as explained below, and can even repair some damage done if you tried to do it yourself.

Toshiba MVPU14 HyperBoard Hyper Board- will repair – eBay external link

Option 2: PTS Corp.

Prior to kcarrigan’s arrival on the scene PTS Corp. was the primary choice for beginner and amature solders. Basically they repair electronic parts like curcuit boards for large items (TVs). All you need to know is that you have to package up your hyperboard and send it to…

PTS Electronics
2000 Liberty Drive
Bloomington, IN 47403

…and include a note with your…

Phone Number:
How you’d like to pay (VISA , MasterCard, or COD):
Description of Problem:

The service, not including shipping, was $125 as of Nov. 2007.

Option 3: Self-Repair

Your other option is to try and repair it yourself, I only recommend this to people who are VERY familiar (note emphasis) with soldering circuit boards or know someone they can trust to do it for them. To summarize it, you’ll need to remove the lower back portion of the case, remove the input board, lay the TV on it’s face***, remove the solder from the underside of the hyperboard and unplug the hyperboard from the mainboard. Here’s a step by step guide I wrote a while back on how to do this:

  1. Remove all the black screws on the back of the TV that are in the cork board.
  2. Remove the cork board
  3. Remove the screws that are in the input board amongst the inputs.
  4. You will notice that it still will not budge, that’s because you still need to remove a nut that is on the cable tv adapter (notice how it is the only one with a nut on it)
  5. Also don’t forget to remove the screws out of the DVI input.
  6. The plastic over the input board should be free now, remove it.
  7. Now you are looking at the input board, CAREFULLY unplug the wires at the top of the board.
  8. Now you need to pull the entire input board up and out of the big black plug at the bottom. Take note of the 2 clasps locking it in place.
  9. You should be looking at the Hyperboard now. (in the silver case with vent holes)
  10. You should also see that it is held down in place by two abs on a big black “bridge”.
  11. There are a total of 4 screws holding the “bridge” in place, two on either side, remove them
  12. Now the hyperboard is loose enough to continue onto the next step
  13. You should notice that the board is strangely still firmly attached to the FRAGILE! main board below it. That’s because it’s soldered to it.
  14. You now will need to tip the tv forward so it is laying on the screen. I put a bunch of pillows and blankets down.
  15. Once you have the TV on it’s face you can see the underside is covered by…chicken wire? (i don’t know what else to call it)
  16. Remove the chicken wire for the upper right section.
  17. This next step is hard to explain but hopefully you can use your intuition and figure out what i’m saying.
  18. Look at the base of the hyperboard where it connects to the mainboard. Then follow that to the other side of the main board.
  19. You should notice that the hyperboard actually extends through the main board and is held in place on the underside of the main board (that you see on the bottom of the tv). And the hyperboard is held on the main board by 4 gobs of solder.
  20. Use a solder gun and solder wick to remove the solder from the tabs poking through (this will take considerable time depending on how well you can wield a soldering iron)
  21. After removing the solder you’ll have to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to straighten the tabs so the hyperboard can be pulled out straight straight-out

Now that you have the hyperboard in hand you either send it to PTS Corp. as mentioned above or you can procede to repair it yourself (this is difficult and without soldering skills is not recommended, you’ve been warned). To open the hyperboard you have to remove 2 more gobs of solder that hold the outer metal casing together. After that you need to replace the wonky capacitors shown in the image below.

Hyperboard with the 11 10uF 16Volt capacitors that need to be replaced identified.

Hyperboard with the 11 10uF 16Volt capacitors that need to be replaced identified.

A couple tips from FixYa:

  • One needs to be very careful when removing the old capacitors as the pads are very easy to “rip” off the board making life a lot less happier.
  • Best bet is to use good lite solder wick, hemostats, maybe an “exacto knife” and a skinny tipped 25 Watt iron
  • Go very slow being extremely careful not to accidently rip up any pads or traces as some are extremely tiny!


Now just reverse the steps, put the hyperboard back in and you should have a fully functional rear-projection Toshiba HDTV!

** the hyperboard is also referred to as hyper-scan module, hyper-module, PD0637, part number 23148024, scan converter, or digital conversion board.

*** ‘bogart’ below has recommended not to lay the unit on it’s face (see comments below)


This problem is not unique to just this model of Toshiba rear-projection TVs. From what I have read it also could apply to the 36HF72, 50H81, 42H81, 57HDX82, 50h12, 57hx81, 50HX1, and many others (if yours is not listed here and this applies to your model please leave a comment and so I can add it).

Toshiba **HDX82 Service Manual

Toshiba 57HDX82 Owner’s Manual

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43 Responses to How To: Fix Toshiba Rear Projection HDTV wavy lines

  1. bogart219 says:

    hey dshosu,
    could you post a link to that
    hdx82 service manual again? The above link appears to be bad. Thank you!

  2. Stephanie says:

    Can you tell me where to order the capacitors? I’ve been unable to find the correct ones for this fix.

    • dshosu says:

      Hi Stephanie,
      I don’t feel comfortable extending my recommendation any further than to suggest you look locally to support your community AND make sure you purchase the “surface mountable” type. I simply told my friend who was going to do the soldering what parts I needed and he ordered them online and took care of it for me.

      A quick Google search shows that there are lots of places you can them online for less than $1 each.

      Good luck!

  3. Stephanie says:

    Okay- I did find some suppliers on line, but I don’t want to buy something that is going to burn out in a year again. Can you give me any suggestions in reference to capacitor details besides 10uf and 16v; what other info is necessary? Does the size matter? What about heat tolerance and hours? Ohms? Or does any of that matter?

  4. Dewd says:

    I just picked up one of these sets yesterday for free (craigslist) knowing full well it had issues. I applaud you for the well written post. Next week I am going to tackle this project using your tutorial.

  5. bogart says:

    I just ordered some caps from mouser electronics. I ordered 20 each
    of smd and radial. Going use the radials. I got the 10mfd, 16 volt, 105c caps. With shipping it was about $21. Will post back with my results:)

  6. ricky says:

    You can buy an alternative board here—

  7. bogart says:

    Hello, I did this repair yesterday. I replaced the 11 caps on the hyperboard. I tore off four pads doing it. I used a small wire to connect from the new cap (I used radials), that had the torn trace to a small hole on the board where I thought it went.(I had to remove the board from the metal sheild)Apparently I screwed something up because the set doesn’t even come on now. I get the red power led lit on the front but nothing else. I’d recommend once you get the board out, send it in for repair!

  8. bogart says:

    Hey DSHOSU,
    Is your set working ok after you did the repair? I did what you suggested and turned the tv over on its face. A fellow in another forum said you should never do this. I sent my board to a guy on ebay.
    search kcarrigan. high ratings. If I would of done this in the first place I would of saved about $100.

    • dshosu says:

      Hi bogart,
      So when I did this repair with my friend, who did the soldering and ordering of the capacitors, initially we had thought we done more damage than good because when we turned the screen on it was just solid green. So I then sent the board to PTS Corp. and had them repair it and send it back. When I got it back from PTS Corp I put it in the TV and we still had a green screen.

      Long story short, apparently when we laid the TV on it’s face one of us accidentally touched the color calibration knobs on the bottom right corner. So we recalibrated it and were good to go. My theory is we actually did fix it when we did the repair. There are also dozens of other people who have successfully done the repair themselves, so don’t let my experience deter others.

      The fact is though soldering those capacitors is very difficult, and not recommended for people not familiar with soldering. You should send me/or post some more info about your experience with “kcarrigan” and I’ll add that to the post.

  9. bogart says:

    Hello Dshosu, Thanks for getting back to me. I guess my biggest concern was if there was a problem laying the set on its face to get to the underside of the board. A person on another forum said you should never do this. It seemed not to be a problem for you however which is a good sign. I’ve done a fair amount of soldering in my time but those smd’s are beyond me. (blind as a bat and shaky hands).For anyone else thinking of doing this If you can get the hyperboard out,just send it to
    Kcarrigan on ebay.|66%3A2|39%3A1|72%3A1205|293%3A1|294%3A50
    Don’t know if this link will work or not. Just search the name. For around $80 he will replace all the caps on that board and send it back. It will probably be a couple weeks till I get my board back. Will post follow up and let you know how it goes 🙂

    • dshosu says:

      I don’t have any knowledge on the reprecussions of laying the unit on it’s face. When I did the repair we did lay a comforter down on the carpet to avoid scratching the screen, but other than that we did not run into any problems.

      Do let us know how it worked out with KCarrigan. I’ve updated the post with your recommendation, thanks!

      • Danno says:

        I have picked up a couple of 50h81’s a 42h82, a 61h71, and a 50h82 and laid all of them down on the screen in the back of my truck… never had a problem with any of the sets ever working… just the main problem of either the IC’s being toast or pico fuses etc. I too tried doing the SMD capacitors on the PD00264A board and botched the thing.. PTS wouldn’t even try to fix it and still wanted to charge me even after they said it wouldn’t cost me anything more than return shipping… which was also 2x what I paid to ship it to them. I would stay away from them. If kcarrigan is the guy on ebay that has a posting for MVPU14 repair.. I talked to him and he seems very reputable.. and I may consider sending him my latest victim.. (50h82) with shaky picture.

  10. bogart says:

    I should report back in two weeks!

  11. bogart219 says:

    Hey DSHOSU,
    I got my hyperboard back today from KCarringan. Fast Turnaround.
    However I still got the same problem as I had before I sent the board in.
    When you turn it on, you hear a click, sounds like a amp kicks on, but thats it. No picture or sound. The red light on front of the unit comes on for fifteen minutes then shuts off. I checked about 7 or 8 fuses on the main power board but they where all good. Any ideas?

    • Thaas says:

      Hi Bogart219,

      I have a 57HDX82 with the same symptom. One single click and red power light comes on, but no audio video. checked fuses OK Did you ever figure out what was wrong with yours?

  12. JWALZ says:

    Hey anyone! Well about 2 weeks ago I got a “working” Toshiba 50H13 for free from a friend. Once I got it set up I was sad to find the image was very wavy and shakey. A quick search on the web lead me to this thread, which has been very helpful. I have a decent amount of small soldering under my belt so I opted to do the repair myself. I ordered a dozen of these:

    Which were an exact match(almost) for the faulty caps on the board. After a week of waiting for the caps I received them earlier today and went on with replacing the 11 faulty capacitors, nerve racking, but not too much trouble. I got home and put the hyper board back along with everything else. I turned the TV on and it worked great. No waves, no zigzags, nothing. This made me VERY happy. BUT after about 10minutes or so. It snapped back to its wavy, zig zaggy ways, but now the menu is messed up too, not just the input signal. -_-

    Has anybody else experienced this bait and switch also? I’m thinking that the capacitors fried themselves already. If anyone knows of any other, better capacitors (higher temp. tolerance?) that will work I would GREATLY appreciate it! Also will thru pin caps work if I solder them to the surface pads? I think someone had tried that route.

    I know this thread has been dead for a month or so. But if anyone is out there! HELP! PLEASE!

    With desperation,

    J Walz

  13. bogart219 says:

    From what I understand, the guy on ebay (ken), changes all the caps on that hyperboard. Don’t know if this is your problem or not.
    As a follow up to my post, I damaged my hyperboard beyond repair when I attempted to fix it my self. I found a set on craigslist similar to mine and got it for $20. I swapped out hyperboards and now my set is working fine so far. Time will tell.

  14. bogart219 says:

    Followup. My picture has a darkish tint to it. Its not as bright as it used to be. Turning up the contrast and brightness does not help much. The color and convergence appears fine, no zig-zag. Will send this hyper off to Ken on Ebay for recap. Hopefully that fixes the problem. Will post back with results!

    • bogart says:

      Followup. My set is fixed! I had to turn the three screen VR knobs up. Just moving them a little makes a big difference. Set looks good again.

  15. Thomas Cole says:

    I’m having the solid green screen problem you mentioned on :

    “So I just got a new board from PTS and I just plugged it back in all giddy like. But now I have a solid green screen with some parallel lines across it. anyone have ANY idea what this is? I don’t even know where to begin.

    In a subsequent post you mentioned knobs under the speakers.

    I can’t find these knobs. Where exactly are they and what do they do. How did you fix the green screen problem?

    Any help greatly appreciated.

    • dshosu says:

      They are on the bottom-right corner. Under the speaker grill and if I remember correctly under a plastic cover under that.

      • Thomas Cole says:

        I can’t read all of your previous message. I can only read the first two sentences. I tried to take that whole panel off. It seemed the bottom part just popped off but the top seems to be stuck and I was afraid to force it open. Any suggestions on getting the top part to separate without breaking something? Thanks very much for your help. I greatly appreciate it and I’m desparate to get this TV fixed.

      • dshosu says:

        I updated the picture, it’s page 8 of the service manual. Hope it helps, good luck.

      • bogart says:

        There is a screw inside the little door by the touch focus button that needs to come off. The panel then snaps off. Take off the cover like in the picture.Turn down your green (to the left)screen vr knob(middle).Turn up the other two.
        Do not mess with the focus knobs.

    • Paul says:

      First off, it sounds like your convergence Integrated Circuits were bad, not the hyperboard. The “STK392-110” I.C. chips are bad.
      They (Two) are mounted on a large heat-sink on the convergence circuit right next to the hyperboard. $10.00/each maybe! and don’t forget to check for burned resistors just under the heat-sink. That’ll do it!

  16. Thomas Cole says:

    What did you do to get from the point of solid green screen to seeing a picture? Did you use the screen vr and focus vs adjustments ? I tried this to no avail. It seems as though I’m not getting a signal at all. The menuing system displays properly But I’m not getting a video signal through ANY of the inputs.

    • dshosu says:

      I just fiddled with the 6 knobs shown on the above post, they adjusted the colors (Red, Green, Blue).

      I’m sorry I can’t be more helpful it’s been about 3 years since I’ve had the TV and I don’t know much more than what I’ve posted.

    • ralph says:

      did you figure out the solid green problem just installed rebuilt
      hyperboard and now my entire screen
      is green sound works and so does menus
      if you were able to fix yours please let me know thanks

  17. Will says:

    I own an older model Toshiba TP48D90 and the red convergence will not align. Any suggestions
    will be most helpful.

  18. Ed says:

    I found the easiest way to reattach the hypermodule was to plug it into the motherboard, then reinstall the bridge assembly to hold it firmly in place, reattach the input board and cover as well as the the 2 plug-ins at the top of the input board. Then tip the TV on its face, rsolder the 4 hypermodule tabs and replattach thwe wire mesh cover on the TV bottom. Worked great for me!

  19. Ecco says:

    Hi, appreciate if anyone can give me contact info for kcarrigan. The eBay link has expired. Thanks.

  20. Marvin Gagnon says:

    I am trying to get in touch with KCarringan about getting a repair, anyone know how to reach him? The links for him to e-bay are no good.

  21. Shane Gregg says:

    I am just an average Joe. I attempted the cap replacement myself with the help of a co worker that is very tech savvy. To my surprise my tv is back in action. Mine is the 36 inch ,but the hyper board is pretty much the same (minus a few components. We desoldered the old ,and relaced with new 22 microphar 16 v caps.The old ones were 10 microphar so webeefed it up a little.I and my friend were amazed once completed. Thanks DSHOSU.

    • Ben Reese says:

      Shane, I don’t have as savy a friend as you. Since you only did this a month ago, did you try to find a new hyper board? How much would you expect to pay someone to do this for us? Thanks.

  22. Mark Shai says:

    My Toshiba was showing wavy lines and at its worst a tempest. I am fairly certain it is the same problem who’s fix is outlined here. My friend and I, both amateur tinkerers, swapped the 10 capacitors described with new 10 microfarad 16v caps. When we put it back together the tv worked but the picture was the same wavy wonder as before. What do ya’ll think, could it be another problem? Has anyone else experienced this? Side note: my roomates used to smack the TV to get the waves to stop for a few minutes, does that mean it is a more mechanical than electrical issue?

  23. George McKinney says:

    While on tv sudenly went out and the on indicator light started flashing. Unplugged a few min., however it continues to flash.Will not come back on. could a bulb have burned out?

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